How to Get the Cat Pee Smell Out of Furniture, and Fast

Picture this: you sit down on your favorite couch and… yikes. If you’re wondering how to get the cat pee smell out of furniture, you’re not alone. Below is a short, practical game plan for the average cat owner—clear steps, safety notes, and fact-checked tips drawn from veterinary and animal-welfare guidance.

Quick Facts (Why this matters)

• House-soiling is the most common feline behavior complaint, so you’re dealing with a very fixable, very common issue. 

• In a Cornell behavior-clinic review, 64% of feline behavior cases were house-soiling. 

• Clean thoroughly and neutralize odor or your cat is likely to return to the spot. Avoid ammonia (and even vinegar)—they can smell “urine-like” to cats and may irritate them. 

What you’ll need

• Plain white cloths or paper towels

• A veterinary-recommended enzymatic cleaner (check label for fabric compatibility)

• A small UV/black-light flashlight (optional, to find old spots) 

• Mild dish soap + cool water (for pre-blotting only)

• Vacuum with upholstery attachment

• Baking soda (optional deodorizer after enzyme work is fully dry)

Safety first: Never mix cleaners. Bleach + ammonia (and vinegar + hydrogen peroxide) can create dangerous gases/irritants. Use one product at a time and rinse between products.

Step-by-Step: How to get cat pee smell out of furniture

1) Blot—don’t rub

Press with dry cloths to remove as much liquid as possible. Work from the outside in to avoid spreading. (If the spot is old, skip to Step 2.)

2) Map the damage

Darken the room and sweep with a UV flashlight to locate hidden splashes along seams, cushions, and the carpet edge beneath the sofa. Mark any glowing areas with small pieces of tape. 

3) Pre-clean lightly

If there’s residue, dab with a little cool water + a drop of dish soap. Blot again until barely damp. Do not use ammonia or vinegar; both can smell like urine to cats and encourage re-soiling. 

4) Enzymatic cleaner: saturate and wait

Apply your enzymatic cleaner per label—enough to reach the same depth as the urine (often deeper than you think). Let it sit for the full recommended time and air-dry completely. Enzyme products break down the urine molecules (like uric acid) so cats can’t smell them. 

Pro tip: If cushions have removable covers, treat both cover and foam (test colorfastness in a hidden spot first). If the foam was heavily soaked and the smell persists after enzyme treatment and drying, replacement may be the faster fix.

5) Dry, then deodorize (optional)

Once fully dry, sprinkle a light layer of baking soda, wait 15–30 minutes, and vacuum. Only do this after the enzyme has finished working and the fabric is dry.

6) Repeat targeted spots

Recheck with the UV light. If any glow remains or you can still detect odor up close, repeat Step 4 on those areas.

7) Block access while drying

Cover with a clean throw, close the room, or place a harmless deterrent like a crinkly mat while everything dries. 

Special surface notes

• Microfiber & synthetic upholstery: Usually enzyme-friendly, but spot-test first.

• Wool, silk, or dry-clean-only fabrics: Blot only and consult a pro cleaner.

• Leather: Immediately blot; use leather-safe cleaners. Enzymes may discolor—spot-test and consider a leather specialist.

• Carpet under/around furniture: Treat there too—cats follow their noses. Thorough odor removal reduces re-marking. 
  

Prevention (so you don’t have to do this again)

• Scoop litter daily, keep boxes easy to access, and consider one box per cat + one extra in multi-cat homes. 

• If accidents are new or frequent, call your vet—urinary issues (like FLUTD) are common and need prompt care. 

• Reduce stressors and keep routines steady; stress can trigger house-soiling. 

Further reading: Cornell Feline Health Center’s guide to house-soiling and odor control is excellent. Cornell Vet College

FAQs

Q1. What’s the fastest way to handle fresh accidents on a couch?
Blot immediately, lightly pre-clean with cool water + a drop of dish soap, then saturate with a fabric-safe enzymatic cleaner and let it air-dry per label. Avoid ammonia or vinegar; cats can interpret those odors as urine. 

Q2. I keep seeing vinegar tips online—should I try it?
Vet sources (Cornell) advise avoiding vinegar for cat urine because it can smell like urine to cats and may be irritating. Use a true enzyme product instead to neutralize, not mask, the odor. 

Q3. How do I get how to get the cat pee smell out of furniture if the odor is deep in the cushion?
Treat both the cover and the foam with an enzymatic cleaner, allowing full drying time. If deep saturation remains after thorough treatment, replacing the foam insert is often the most time-efficient solution.

Q4. Is a black light worth it for old smells?
Yes—UV flashlights make lingering spots easier to find so you can re-treat precisely. Choose a pet-urine detector with strong LEDs for best results. 

Q5. What shouldn’t I mix or use?
Don’t use ammonia-based cleaners. Never mix bleach with ammonia (toxic chloramines) or vinegar with hydrogen peroxide (irritating peracetic acid). Use one product at a time and rinse between different products. 

Q6. Any statistics on how common this is?
House-soiling is the most common behavior problem reported by cat owners, and in a Cornell clinic review, 64% of behavior cases were house-soiling. You’re definitely not alone. 

Conclusion

If you follow this plan, you’ll remove the odor at the source, which is the only way to stop repeat visits to the scene of the crime. And remember: quick action + enzymes + safe practices beat cover-ups every time.